Your fat-tailed gecko can't tell you the floor has cooled or the humid hide has dried out. baskr watches the pattern across your logs, temperature, humidity, weight and feeding, and shows you what needs attention before it becomes a problem.
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African Fat-tailed Gecko
Warm spot cool
Ground spot averaged 26°C vs the 30–32°C it needs. Check the heat and thermostat.
Warm floor
30–32°C · 86–90°F
Cool side
24–26°C · 75–79°F
Humidity
50–70% (humid hide)
Ideal ranges for Hemitheconyx caudicinctus, the same targets baskr scores your logs against.
Basking and warm figures are surface temperatures at the spot; cool and ambient are air. Measure with a probe or infrared thermometer at the animal's height.
Nocturnal
Active by night
West Africa
Wild climate. Warm West African savanna and forest edge; more humid than the leopard gecko's dry range, with warm ground and humid retreats.
Why the care is what it is. This is why baskr targets a 30 to 32°C warm floor, an essential humid hide and 50 to 70% humidity, more moisture than a leopard gecko needs.
Logging is the input. The product is spotting when a single off reading becomes a pattern worth acting on.
A warm ground spot of 30–32°C (86–90°F), with a cool side
A cool floor stops belly-heat digestion and appetite.
50–70% with an essential moist hide
Too dry, or no humid hide, causes stuck sheds, more so than for a leopard gecko.
Clean, complete sheds
Stuck shed on toes and the tail tip needs the moist hide and more humidity.
A plump tail and steady weight
A thinning tail base is an early red flag.
Gut-loaded insects, calcium-dusted
Refusals warrant checking floor warmth and prey size.
A possible seasonal winter slow-down
baskr separates a normal dip from an off-season decline to act on.
Safe to include
Avoid
Planting is optional; a proper humid hide and plenty of cover do more for this ground gecko than plants.
Staples
Occasional / treats
Never feed
Supplements. Calcium at most feeds (with D3 lightly) and a multivitamin occasionally.
Good to know. A nocturnal insectivore like a leopard gecko. Keep calcium up and prey sized right.
The right kind of kit, pick brands you trust.
Ground heat
A heat mat or low overhead heat for a warm ground spot of 30–32°C, always on a thermostat.
Thermostat
Essential with a heat mat, to prevent burns and hold the warm floor.
Humid hide
A moist hide (damp moss/substrate) is essential for clean sheds, more so than for a leopard gecko.
UVB lighting
Optional: a low (~5%) tube can benefit a nocturnal species but isn't essential.
Thermometer + hygrometer
To track the warm floor and humidity.
Low, wide enclosure
A floor-space enclosure rather than a tall one, this is a terrestrial gecko.
Grounded in your own logs and the ideal ranges above, plain language, never a diagnosis.
Warm ground spot reading 26°C, cool for a fat-tail. Check the heat source, ground warmth drives digestion.
Humidity low and a shed came off in pieces. Refresh the humid hide, fat-tails need more moisture than leopard geckos.
Tail base looks thinner in recent photos. Log weights and check feeding and warmth.
Enter your own readings for an instant care score, the same check baskr runs for you every day.
Enter a reading or two above to see African Fat-tailed Gecko's care score.
A quick guide, not a diagnosis. Ideal ranges vary with age, morph and setup, and individual animals differ, so confirm anything critical with an experienced keeper or a reptile vet.
Very similar care, but fat-tails come from humid West Africa, so they need a proper humid hide and a touch more moisture. They're often calmer, too.
Yes, gently, once settled, they're among the more docile geckos. Never grab or lift by the tail, which they can drop.
It's optional. They're nocturnal and fine without it, though low-level UVB can benefit them. Ground warmth matters more.
It's a fat store. A plump tail means good condition; a thinning tail base is an early warning sign worth acting on.
Log your african fat-tailed gecko's care in seconds and baskr does the watching. Free for your first 3 animals.
Start freeLast reviewed August 2026. General husbandry guidance, not veterinary advice, and ranges vary with age, morph, subspecies and setup. Confirm anything critical with an experienced keeper or an exotics vet.