Your leo can't tell you the warm spot has drifted cool, that a shed is going wrong, or that its tail is thinning. baskr watches the pattern across your logs, temperature, humidity, weight, feeding and shedding, and shows you what needs attention before it becomes a problem.
Free forever for your first 3 animals · Works offline · No app store
Health today
Doing okay
Leopard Gecko
Shed overdue, humidity low
5 weeks since a clean shed and humidity averaging 22%. Top up the humid hide.
Warm spot
30–32°C · 86–90°F
Cool side
22–25°C · 72–77°F
Humidity
30–40%
Ideal ranges for Eublepharis macularius, the same targets baskr scores your logs against.
Basking and warm figures are surface temperatures at the spot; cool and ambient are air. Measure with a probe or infrared thermometer at the animal's height.
Crepuscular
Active at dawn and dusk
Rocky drylands of Afghanistan, Pakistan and NW India
Wild climate. Arid rocky desert; hot days, cooler nights, active at dusk.
Why the care is what it is. This is why it wants a warm dry floor (28 to 32°C), snug hides and low-level UVB, not a humid, brightly-lit setup.
Logging is the input. The product is spotting when a single off reading becomes a pattern worth acting on.
30–32°C (86–90°F) belly heat over the warm hide
A few degrees cool for a week and digestion slows, leos need warm ground to process food.
A cool side of 22–25°C (72–77°F)
No real gradient leaves a gecko unable to regulate, and skews appetite and activity.
30–40%, with a humid hide for shedding
Too dry and sheds stick to toes and eyes; persistently damp air is a respiratory risk.
A full tail and steady, stable weight
A thinning tail or downward weight trend across weigh-ins is an early red flag.
Regular insect meals, more often for juveniles
A run of refusals that isn't a shed or a cool spell is worth a closer look at warmth and weight.
A clean shed in one or two pieces every few weeks
Stuck shed on toes or eye caps can cause lost toes if it's missed, baskr flags the interval.
Safe to include
Avoid
An arid species doesn't need a jungle, a few hardy succulents and sturdy plants add cover and hiding spots. Skip anything you can't confirm is non-toxic, and make sure plants don't push humidity too high.
Staples
Occasional / treats
Never feed
Supplements. Dust insects with calcium (with D3 a few times weekly if UVB is minimal or absent) and a reptile multivitamin about once a week.
Good to know. Leopard geckos are strict insectivores, no veg, no fruit. Always gut-load feeder insects, and keep prey no wider than the gap between the gecko's eyes.
The right kind of kit, pick brands you trust.
Belly heat
A gentle overhead heat source or under-tank heat mat on a thermostat, positioned to hold a 30–32°C warm spot on the ground. Warm ground, not a bright basking beam, is what a leo needs.
Thermostat
Non-negotiable, it controls the heat source so the warm end can't overheat or scorch a hide floor.
UVB lighting
A low-output T5 HO UVB tube (~5–6%, Ferguson zone 1–2) is beneficial for a crepuscular species, mount it over the cool-to-mid area so the gecko can choose its exposure.
Thermometer + hygrometer
Digital, with a probe read at floor level on the warm end, not stick-on dials. Check both ends of the gradient.
Humid hide
A closed hide with damp moss or paper towel on the warm-to-mid side, kept moist to support clean shedding.
Grounded in your own logs and the ideal ranges above, plain language, never a diagnosis.
Warm spot read 26°C for 6 days, below the 30–32°C your leo needs to digest. Check the mat, thermostat or hide placement.
Luna has refused 3 feeds in a row and there's no shed logged, keep an eye on tail thickness and warm-end temperature.
It's been 5 weeks since the last clean shed and humidity is averaging 22%. Top up the humid hide before shed sticks to toes or eye caps.
Enter your own readings for an instant care score, the same check baskr runs for you every day.
Enter a reading or two above to see Leopard Gecko's care score.
A quick guide, not a diagnosis. Ideal ranges vary with age, morph and setup, and individual animals differ, so confirm anything critical with an experienced keeper or a reptile vet.
Aim for roughly 30–32°C (86–90°F) of belly heat over the warm hide, with a cooler side around 22–25°C (72–77°F) so it can thermoregulate. Leos take heat from warm ground rather than basking, so measure at floor level. baskr checks the temperatures you log against this range and flags a sustained drift, but always verify with a good thermometer on the warm end.
No, leopard geckos are strict insectivores and can't properly digest plant matter. Feed a variety of gut-loaded insects like dubia roaches, crickets and mealworms, dusted with calcium. If you ever see a care sheet suggesting veg, treat it as a red flag and check with an exotics vet.
Stuck shed almost always comes down to humidity that's too low or a missing humid hide, watch the toes and eye caps especially, since retained shed can cost toes. Provide a moist hide and keep humidity around 30–40%. baskr tracks your shed intervals and humidity together and flags a shed that's overdue; for retained shed that won't clear, see an exotics vet.
Watch the tail, a healthy leo has a plump tail, and a thinning tail is often the first sign something's off. Weigh regularly and track the trend rather than a single reading. baskr charts the trajectory so a slow decline stands out early; steady weight loss warrants a vet check, as baskr is a husbandry assistant, not a diagnosis.
Log your leopard gecko's care in seconds and baskr does the watching. Free for your first 3 animals.
Start freeLast reviewed August 2026. General husbandry guidance, not veterinary advice, and ranges vary with age, morph, subspecies and setup. Confirm anything critical with an experienced keeper or an exotics vet.