Do leopard geckos need heat at night?
Usually no. Leopard geckos come from regions with cool nights and handle a natural night-time drop well, a night range of about 18–22°C (65–72°F) is ideal. You only need a night heat source if the room falls below roughly 15–16°C (60°F) for sustained periods, and if you do, it must be a non-light source (a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector) on a thermostat, never a coloured or red night bulb.
What night temperature does a leopard gecko need?
A gentle night drop is healthy: aim for roughly 18–22°C (65–72°F) across the enclosure at night, with the warm side allowed to sit a little higher. A healthy adult tolerates dips to about 15°C (60°F) without trouble; it's only sustained temperatures below that where you should add gentle heat. There's no need for a bright basking spot at night. If your warm side reads 26–27°C (79–80°F) overnight, that's not harmful, it's just warmer than necessary, so don't worry if a thermostat holds it there.
When (and how) to add a night heat source
Only add night heat if the room genuinely drops below about 15–16°C (60°F) for long stretches. Use a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or deep heat projector, which give heat without light, always on a thermostat. Set the thermostat so it only switches on below your target (for example 20–21°C / 68–70°F), so on mild nights it simply idles. That gives a stable floor without over-heating, and lets the gecko still experience a natural day-to-night drop.
Why not a red or coloured night bulb?
Reptiles can see red and blue light, so a coloured 'night' bulb disrupts their day-night cycle and can stress and tire them, which is why they're no longer recommended. If you need heat after dark, switch to a non-light ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector on a thermostat. Switching a red bulb for a thermostatted CHE, exactly what many keepers do, is the right move.
Daytime is different: basking heat plus UVB
By day, a leopard gecko wants a proper gradient: an overhead white basking bulb bringing the warm surface to about 32–35°C (90–95°F), a cool side around 21–24°C (70–75°F), and a low-level linear T5 UVB tube (such as a 7% Arcadia ShadeDweller or a Reptisun 5.0). Modern setups favour overhead heat for that gradient; a thermostatted heat mat can add belly heat but shouldn't be the only source. Every heat source belongs on a thermostat, and an unheated rock or ledge under the basking bulb is fine, it's electric 'hot rocks' that are best avoided, as they can burn.
When to see a vet
A gecko held too cold for too long stops eating and can't digest, which risks impaction. See an exotics vet if, after a cold spell, your gecko is lethargic, refusing food, regurgitating, or hasn't passed waste, and any time you can't hold safe temperatures despite trying.
One reading rarely tells the story. What matters is whether it's an isolated blip or part of a trend, so look at recent weight, feeding intervals, shedding, temperature and behaviour together.
baskr keeps those records in one place and watches the pattern for you, so you can see whether something has genuinely changed with your leopard gecko, before it becomes a problem.
Track my leopard gecko freeRelated questions
Do leopard geckos need heat at night?+
Usually no. A night drop to about 18–22°C (65–72°F) is healthy and natural. Only add a thermostat-controlled ceramic heat emitter if the room sits below roughly 15–16°C (60°F) for sustained periods.
Can I use a red light at night for my leopard gecko?+
No. Reptiles can see red light, so it disrupts their day-night cycle. Use a non-light ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector on a thermostat instead, or nothing if the room stays warm enough.
My leopard gecko's warm side is 79–80°F at night, is that too warm?+
It's fine, if anything a little warmer than needed. A natural night drop into the 60s–70s Fahrenheit is healthy, and there's no need for a night-time basking spot.
Is a heat mat or an overhead bulb better for a leopard gecko?+
Modern setups favour an overhead basking bulb by day for a proper temperature gradient, plus a thermostatted ceramic heat emitter only for genuinely cold nights. A heat mat can add belly heat but shouldn't be the sole source, and all heat sources must be on a thermostat.
More Leopard Gecko questions
- Why is my leopard gecko hiding all day?
- Why is my leopard gecko not eating?
- Leopard gecko stuck shed: what to do
- Is it normal for a leopard gecko to stop eating in winter?
- Why is my leopard gecko losing weight?
- Why did my leopard gecko drop its tail?
- Why does my leopard gecko have wobbly or shaky legs?
- Is my leopard gecko impacted?
- Why is my leopard gecko waving its tail?
baskr provides husbandry guidance, not veterinary advice. For anything involving weight loss, injury or illness, always verify with an experienced keeper or an exotics vet.