Hermann's tortoise vs Russian tortoise: which should you get?
Both are small, hardy, weed-eating Mediterranean-type tortoises that live 50-plus years and make excellent first tortoises, so neither is a wrong choice, the honest split is that a Russian tortoise stays a bit smaller but is a determined digger and escape artist that prefers drier conditions, while a Hermann's runs slightly larger and tolerates a touch more humidity. Your available space, how escape-proof you can make the setup, and which you can source from a reputable breeder decide it.
| Hermann's Tortoise | Russian Tortoise | |
|---|---|---|
| Care level | Beginner, hardy classic Mediterranean tortoise | Beginner, very hardy but a determined escaper |
| Adult size | 15–20 cm, ~1–2 kg | 13–20 cm, ~0.5–1.5 kg |
| Lifespan | 50–90+ years | 40–50+ years |
| Enclosure | Large open table/outdoor pen; secure low walls | Large open pen with dig-proof, buried barriers |
| Heat & UVB | Basking spot 32–35°C (90–95°F); strong UVB | Basking spot 32–35°C (90–95°F); strong UVB |
| Diet | Weeds & leafy greens; high-fibre, low-protein | Weeds & leafy greens; high-fibre, low-protein |
| Handling | Best minimised; robust and calm on the ground | Best minimised; bold, active and inquisitive |
Care difficulty, both hardy beginner tortoises
Neither is a demanding species, which is why both top 'first tortoise' lists. Each wants a large, open, well-lit space, a hot basking spot, strong UVB, a high-fibre weed-based diet and a proper cool hibernation each year. The Russian is arguably the tougher of the two and copes well with drier, more arid conditions, while the Hermann's tolerates a little more humidity, but the real challenge with both is scale and lifespan, not day-to-day fiddliness. These are decades-long commitments, so plan for an adult-sized setup and future care from the start.
Housing and heating
Both do best in a large open enclosure, a tortoise table indoors and, ideally, a secure outdoor pen for summer sun and grazing. The key difference is behaviour: Russian tortoises are enthusiastic diggers and genuine escape artists, so their pens need walls sunk well below ground and barriers they can't burrow under or climb over. Hermann's dig too but are usually a little less relentless about it. Both need a basking spot of about 32–35°C (90–95°F) at one end, a cooler retreat at the other, and a good UVB source for healthy shell and bone.
Feeding
Feeding is nearly identical and refreshingly simple: a varied diet of weeds and leafy greens such as dandelion, plantain, clover and other safe wild plants, high in fibre and low in protein. Avoid fruit, and don't feed dog or cat food, pellets or excess protein, all of which cause dangerous shell deformity and organ problems in both species. Provide fresh water and a calcium source such as cuttlebone. If you can establish a safe, pesticide-free weed patch, either tortoise will graze happily for its whole long life.
Handling and temperament
Tortoises are animals to watch rather than to handle, and both of these are best picked up only when necessary, for health checks, weighing or moving them. Both are robust and generally calm, and the Russian in particular is bold, active and endlessly curious about its boundaries. Regular gentle weighing lets you track condition without stressing the animal. Neither is aggressive, but frequent handling offers them no benefit, so the main day-to-day interaction is observation and grazing.
Pick the hermann's tortoise if…
You want the classic, slightly larger beginner tortoise, you can provide a big open space with summer outdoor time, and you're committed for many decades. Copes with a little more humidity than the Russian.
Hermann's Tortoise care guidePick the russian tortoise if…
You want the smaller of the two, you can build a genuinely dig-proof and escape-proof pen, and you prefer a drier, more arid setup for a bold, active burrower.
Russian Tortoise care guideThe bottom line
Choose a Russian tortoise if you want the smaller of the two and don't mind building a genuinely dig-proof, escape-proof enclosure for a keen burrower. Choose a Hermann's tortoise if you want the classic, slightly larger beginner tortoise that copes with a little more humidity. Both need a warm basking spot, UVB, ideally outdoor time in summer, and a proper hibernation, so decide on size, space and sourcing rather than difficulty, and remember either is a multi-decade commitment.
Whichever you choose, baskr tracks its care and spots when a reading becomes a pattern, so you catch a problem early instead of guessing.
Start freeCommon questions
Is a Hermann's tortoise or Russian tortoise better for beginners?+
Both are excellent, hardy first tortoises and similarly easy. Pick a Russian tortoise if you want a slightly smaller, very tough digger and can make the pen escape-proof, or a Hermann's if you want the classic beginner tortoise that tolerates a little more humidity.
Which is smaller, a Russian tortoise or a Hermann's tortoise?+
The Russian tortoise is usually a little smaller, often around 13–20 cm, while a Hermann's tends to reach 15–20 cm. Both are small enough for a home tortoise table, but each still needs a large, open enclosure and, ideally, an outdoor summer pen.
Do Hermann's and Russian tortoises need to hibernate?+
Both are hibernating species and benefit from a properly managed cool dormancy each year, which supports natural rhythms and long-term health. Only hibernate a fit, healthy, correctly weighed tortoise, and read up thoroughly or ask an experienced keeper or reptile vet before your first attempt.
Can you house a Hermann's and Russian tortoise together?+
It's best not to. Mixing species risks transmitting diseases and parasites to which each has different resistance, and tortoises frequently bully or stress one another. House them singly, or at least keep species separate, and quarantine any new arrival first.
baskr provides husbandry guidance, not veterinary advice. Care needs vary by individual animal and source, always cross-check with an up-to-date care sheet or an exotics vet.